G.D. Vajra, Barolo, Bricco delle Viole 2019

The 2019 Barolo Bricco delle Viole offers a beguiling combination of depth and energy. Dark and potent in the glass, yet also quite reticent, the 2019 is going to take a number of years to come around. Black cherry, graphite, crushed rocks, mint, sage and incense all open in the glass, but only with quite a bit of reticence. I especially like the way the 2019 opens up on its resonant, expansive finish, but it remains a decidedly brooding Barolo whose best days are far off in the future.

Jeweled in appearance, the 2019 Barolo Bricco Delle Viole may be the best wine I have tried yet from Vajra. Its gorgeous and alluring perfume of fresh roses is followed by a Burgundian, elegant red with incredible length and no harsh edges, fine and present tannins, and beautiful, graceful concentration. It is drinking well now, and I will be trying to get my hands on as much of this as possible. Drink 2025-2045.

The last wine poured at my tasting at the winery is the G.D. Vajra 2019 Barolo Bricco delle Viole. With its high vantage point in the hills west of Barolo, Bricco delle Viole is a world apart in terms of soils (with Sant'Agata marl and fossils) and even harvest times. Slow and careful ripening like the kind that characterizes fruit in 2019 renders a very delicate and ethereal expression with floral tones, wild mint and licorice. This organic wine is solid in build and structure. Indeed, Isidoro Vaira remarks that Nebbiolo tannins have changed since the 1970s and 1980s. Because of climate change and stylistic preference, they are more polished and accessible today.

Bricco delle Viole is the highest vineyard in the commune of Barolo, at 400-480 metres above sea level, and is consequently one of the last to be picked by GD Vajra. Vinified in tini followed by a 31-day maceration under submerged cap, the wine went through malo in stainless steel in spring 2020 before ageing for 28 months in 25 and 50hl Slavonian oak casks. Beautifully defined scents of its namesake violets, along with wild strawberry, red cherry, balsam and damp earth, lead to a grippy, bright, energetic and sapid palate awash with fresh acidity and violet- and lavender-infused forest fruits. A really pretty Barolo, it's so fresh, fragrant and inviting, yet with the structure to reward cellaring. 2019 was one of the longest growing seasons of the decade. Harvest here finished 23 October.

Aromas of crushed stone, flowers and berries follow through to a medium to full body with firm and velvety tannins and a juicy finish. Very primary now and needs time to develop in the bottle. From organically grown grapes. Try after 2026.