Antinori (Castello della Sala), Cervaro della Sala, Umbria 2020

Complex nose of toast, charred pineapple, green papaya, kaffir lime and lemon. Crushed stones and white pepper, too. Full-bodied with vibrant acidity. Textured. Long and layered. Delicious and concentrated. Drink or hold.

Nosing the 2020 Cervaro della Sala is like waking into a French bakery in the early morning, with notes of lemon oil, butter cream, crusty bread, fresh dough and vanilla bean contrasted by a whiff of crushed oyster shell, which may not be on the menu, but still works perfectly here. This glides effortlessly across the palate with the silkiest of textures, steadily gaining in tension, as mineral-drenched orchard fruits give way to sour melon and, finally, pretty inner florals. The 2020 lingers impossibly long and lightly structured, displaying notes of candied citrus enriched by almond custard. I'd love to toss this blend of 92% Chardonnay and 8% Grechetto into a blind tasting of white Burgundy. Beautifully done.