Giovanni Rosso, Barolo, Vignarionda Ester Canale 2020

In 2020, the rain occurred mainly at night, which was positive for the ripening of the vines. Nevertheless, the wines will be thinner than in 2019,’ states Giovanni Rosso winemaker Andrea Delpiano. The care for Vigna Rionda – one of the most important crus of Serralunga and the Barolo denomination – is meticulous. As always, the Ester Canale 2020 is very intense on the nose, with sweet violet, cinnamon, and wild strawberry, and this year, it has notes of black fruits as well. A marvellous tight-knit structure between refreshing acidity and thick, velvety, ripe tannins accompanies the rhubarb finish.

Drink 2024 - 2040

The 2020 Barolo Vignarionda Ester Canale Rosso melds elegance with power in the way that is truly characteristic of Barolo. Blood orange, cinnamon, dried flowers, mint, white pepper, hard candy and kirsch fill out the layers effortlessly. Readers will find a Vignarionda of understatement and nuance more than power.

This is a terrific set of 2020 Barolos from Davide Rosso. The wines show more precision and nuance than in the past, which is great to see. The 2020s spent 25 days on skins with regular pumpovers and punchdowns. Wines were settled naturally and then racked into cask in early 2021. The Barolos spent three years in French oak casks, except for the Vignarionda, which sees only Slavonian oak.

Drink 2028 - 2040

This special wine is made in honour of the vintner’s mother, who lives in a pretty white house overlooking this vineyard site in Serralunga d’Alba. Closed with a wax capsule, the Giovanni Rosso 2020 Barolo VignaRionda Ester Canale Rosso is a generous expression of Nebbiolo with dark fruit, black liquorice and crushed stone. The tannins are sweet in a vintage with good rain distribution throughout the year. This ruby-coloured Barolo is softer overall, revealing a strongly fruit-driven finish.

Drink 2026 - 2045

Tasted from the barrel, the medium red 2020 Barolo Vigna Rionda is elegant and light on its feet and a bit softer in fruit with delicate notes of ripe strawberries, raspberries, candied flowers, and shows the pretty side of this vintage in this cuvee. Medium-bodied, very well-styled, and fresh, it floats on the palate and has a delicate mouthwatering feel to its clean finish. It’s going to be ready sooner than some of the more structured vintages that have preceded or followed it, but it has more depth than 2018.