Penfolds, Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia 2020

Strong statement of cabernet is the first impression, with violets, blueberries, blackcurrants, fresh leaves and herbs. I like the clarity here. The palate has such intense and rich fruit, with plush, polished and ripe blueberry and cassis flavors. Holds an impressively measured and balanced stance. A blend of McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway and Wrattonbully. Drink or hold.

This 2020 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon is big and structural—the Cabernet character the “Cabernosity” of the wine) sits behind a parapet of oak, and the tannins are finely knit and tightly clenched around the fruit. Unpicking the structure from the finish reveals smoked cassis, resinous char, star anise and sticky lamb fat. It’s a big-shouldered, muscly wine.

This is fierce and concentrated and will live an eon, but in my opinion, it lacks the finesse and poise that I want to see in Cabernet Sauvignon. The oak regimen—15 months in French 24% new) and American 12% new) hogsheads—and regional makeup has something to do with that: McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Coonawarra, Padthaway and Wrattonbully. There are a lot of good Cabernet regions in there, but in combination, they lose their identities—although, that has long been the appeal with this wine. Choose your own adventure.

Drink 2022 - 2042