Domaine de Chevalier, Rouge Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan 2021

A medium-bodied DC with a pretty core of ripe fruit that shows licorice, blackberry and some currant character. Spice box, too. Very long, with fine tannins and plenty of energy.

Inky purple in colour, powerful aromatics. Chevalier is often an estate to turn to in challenging vintages, and is proving its mettle here. This is another league from much of 2021, extremely impressive in quality. Clove, saffron, turmeric, leather, complex layers of flavour that unroll slowly and get a sense of momentum building. The fingerprint of 2021 comes through in the savoury black fruits and austere tannins that need more filling out over ageing, but this is exceptional. 30hl/h yield. In organic conversion.

Drink 2026 - 2040

The 2021 Domaine de Chevalier was picked from September 28 until October 15 at 30hL/ha. Tobacco- and sous-bois-infused black fruit unfurl with a sense of assuredness on the nose, the best example, a third bottle toward the end of my tastings, being the most delineated. This has energy rather than horsepower. The palate is medium-bodied with pencil-lead-infused black fruit and a slightly powdery texture, certainly the most saline in recent years, leading to an almost Pauillac-inspired finish. Stylish and classic Domaine de Chevalier.

Drink 2026 - 2055

The 2021 Domaine de Chevalier is full of promise, bursting with aromas of dark berries and plums mingled with loamy soil, bay leaf, licorice, potpourri and spices. Medium to full-bodied, seamless and complete, its velvety attack segues into a lively, layered core, concluding with a long, nicely defined finish. Olivier Bernard doesn't think that this will surpass his 2018, but I tend to disagree. The 2021 is a blend of fully 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.