Penfolds, St. Henri Shiraz, South Australia 2022

Slate, crayon, rose bud, raspberry puree, cumin, tapenade, enveloping peony notes as it opens. Intense right now, with a ton of pleasure, but this is a wine that deserves long cellaring, and I suggest giving it several more years in bottle to allow the floral, finessed side to come out, as this is truly a wine that can age. Peter Gago chief winemaker. No new oak for ageing.

The 2022 Shiraz St Henri is quite classic and more brooding than usual. This is an iron fist in a velvet glove, with a compact, youthful core of blackberry and tempered chocolate over a gentle dusting of Middle Eastern spices and coal fire. It is superbly balanced with rivers of fine tannins and the fruit is still very much in its shell. The 2022 is a superstar in the making.

The 2022 St Henri Shiraz is a magnificent wine, which ages with grace and detail for many, many decades. Looking at this as a young wine, it shows exuberant fruit power, powerful structure and a cacophony of spices. However, with age, these wines become graceful and almost ethereal. In a recent tasting of 40 vintages of St Henri going back to 1958, the wine revealed itself to be one of patience, detail and elegance. The highlights undoubtedly were 1962, 1971, 1986, 1991 and 2010. These were wines for the ages, and this 2022 will be. The fruit is from Barossa Valley (39%), McLaren Vale (31%) and the balance from Padthaway, matured for 14 months in large, seasoned vats. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

A brighter, bigger style of St Henri. Strawberry and cherry on the nose, then a ripe and concentrated palate full of flavour, charm and personality, packed with tons of superb spice which comes from both the fruit and the wood: liquorice, black and Szechuan pepper. Juicy, succulent and totally moreish on the finish. Very full structured, dense and powerful but tightly coiled right now. Built for the long haul, this will age for decades and provide plenty of enjoyment along the way. A blend of 96% Shiraz and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale and Padthaway, aged 14 months in large, seasoned oak vats. Released at £95.