Pichon Comtesse Reserve, Pauillac 2022

The density of fruit is serious with blackcurrants, black berries, crushed stone and coffee beans. Yet it’s not heavy and overdone. The palate is full and rich, but also agile and weightless, with tannins that are spread and pretty.

Gorgeous aromatics, vibrant but deep too. Tannins make the impact straight away, there’s good density here, clear concentration this is carrying some heft in the really quite potent dark fruit flavours, spiced edges and sense of heat that comes through the underneath. Broad but focussed, definitely more streamlined than wide and plush, with almost chewy tannins but that have a pure cool blue fruit, liquorice and slate grip to them giving them edges and creating the linear focus. Feels well constructed, still on the tense nervous side but it has an appealing juicy grip too. 3.8pH. 50% grand vin, 50% second wine. 3.8pH. 2% Cabernet Franc completes the blend.

Fully ripe fruits, smoky and creamy character with charred raspberry and cassis, violet-edged, pencil lead, bitter chocolate, cocoa dust. An impressive wine, tannins close in a little tightly on the finish, with dried rosemary and black pepper spicy translating the heat of the vintage. 31hl/h yield, 3.65ph.

Deep purple-hued, the 2022 Pichon Comtesse Reserve is based on 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, raised 14 months in 50% new barrels. It's beautifully done and has a ripe, layered, yet still classic style in its ripe black and blue fruits, graphite, and floral notes. It's medium to full-bodied and has a round, layered mouthfeel and ripe tannins. I’d be thrilled to drink a bottle any time over the coming 15+ years.

Readers shouldn't overlook the 2022 Resèrve de la Comtesse, a lovely wine that's one of the most accomplished second wines of Bordeaux. Offering up aromas of sweet minty berries, burning embers, pencil shavings and violets, it's medium to full-bodied, lavish and aromatic, with an almost exotic core of fruit, powdery tannins and a penetrating finish.

The 2022 Pichon Comtesse Reserve is made from 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple in color, it comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant scents of juicy black plums, blackberry pie, and boysenberry preserves, plus hints of black cherries, cedar chest, and lavender. The medium to full-bodied palate coats the mouth with perfumed black fruit preserves, supported by plush tannins and just enough freshness, finishing on an earthy note. pH 3.8.

The 2022 Réserve de la Comtesse is fabulous. Vibrant and impeccable in its balance, the 2022 is so impressive, mostly because of its balance. In some recent years the Réserve has been quite potent, but the 2022 leans more into the realm of sophistication, and polish. Hints of dark-fleshed fruit, licorice, lavender and spice linger. Don't miss it. Tasted four times.

Drink 2028 - 2040

The 2022 Réserve has a lively and well defined nose: blackberry, pencil shavings and brine scents unfolding in the glass. Just a scintilla of herbaceousness that works well here. The palate is medium-bodied with a harmonious entry. Just a little lower in acidity than I might have liked, which takes away a bit of tension and race, although there is decent fruit purity on the finish. Fine. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London.