Chateau Montrose 2eme Cru Classe, Saint-Estephe 1996

As with the 1982, the colour is starting to soften and brick around the edges, but the main body of the wine remains a deep plum. A reminder once again of how brilliant the 1996 classified Médocs are right now. It is gentle, with caressing tobacco and campfire notes and the signature cassis and blackberry of Montrose. The finesse and the juicy, mouthwatering finish is so impressive, growing in intensity as it comes in waves through the palate. This is peak Montrose, in a year that was generous in its yields, if not quite as much as the 1982, but well over 45hl/h. Not huge amounts left at the estate now, as these were the years when almost everything sold En Primeur, up to 95% of production. Harvest September 23 to October 6.

Tasted at the vertical in London, I have instead used the tasting note from a bottle opened at the property when I visited just a couple of weeks later. The 1996 Montrose is a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot picked between 23 September and 6 October. It was served alongside the 1986 Montrose, however, this is a far better wine and reconfirms Robert Parker's remarks at his own vertical at the property in 2014. For me, it is that loamy character that defines the nose—freshly tilled, damp soil that tinctures the black fruit —that takes you straight to this particular château. This is classic through and through and very well defined. The palate is wonderful with very fine delineation, pitch-perfect acidity, touches of graphite infusing the red and black fruit that dovetails into a very pretty, floral finish. This is clearly one of the great wines of the 1996 vintage and I would be stocking up as much as I could, because it will give 30-40 years of pleasure. Tasted July 2016.