Barolo, Cannubi Boschis, Luciano Sandrone, Piedmont, Italy 2004

I was blown away by the breathtaking purity and definition of Sandrones 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis. A translucent dark ruby, this weightless yet sumptuous Barolo bursts from the glass with layers of dark ripe fruit that coat the palate with stunning grace and elegance. As it sits in the glass notes of licorice, tar and sweet toasted oak gradually emerge to complete this magnificent wine. I tasted this along with the 2001, which has shut down considerably since I last tasted it earlier this year. Today the 2004 is the more elegant wine although the 2001 looks to be more powerful and perhaps longer-lived. My rating of the 2001 95) appears to have been conservative by about 2 points. One of the highlights of the vintage, Sandrones 2004 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.