Luciano Sandrone, Barolo, Vigne 2004

Sandrone’s 2004 Barolo Le Vigne is equally compelling. A bit deeper than the 2008, the 2004 (also from a long growing season) has developed every bit as well as I had hoped it would when I first tasted the separate components from barrel many years ago.

(5.8 g/l total acidity, pH 3.53, dry extract 32.4 g/l, 14.2% alcohol): Fully saturated ruby-red. Musky, ripe aromas of red cherry, blackberry and tobacco, with hints of truffle and tar. Enters the mouth full and dense, then turns juicy in the middle, with a suave touch to its rather ripe black plum, blackberry and tar flavors. Smoothly tannic on the long, impressive finish, with a lingering textural creaminess and persistent hints of camphor, sandalwood and mint. As good as this wine is, I've never been quite as impressed by it as some other experts: I find it a little too outsized and rich and lacking the laser-like purity of the greatest Barolo vintages. Still, as this is very much an infant, it's likely to develop more nuance and refinement in bottle, at which point my score will look ungenerous. Don't even think of opening a bottle for at least another eight years, and enjoy it for a couple decades after that.