Chateau Cheval Blanc, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2004

"This may be the finest Cheval Blanc since the monumental 2000.... A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a classic Cheval perfume of menthol, red as well as black currants, smoke, oranges, and black tea. It possesses beautiful sweetness and purity, medium body, extraordinary elegance, and potential complexity. While not a blockbuster in the style of the 2000 and 1998, it is a precise, fragrant, potentially top-flight effort as well as one of the finest wines of the vintage."

The 2004 Cheval Blanc has always been a wine that I felt needed patience on behalf of the wine lover, and so it is proving to be the case. Served blind I remarked upon a surprisingly Burgundy-like bouquet with ample red cherries, candied strawberry and redcurrant scents, the Merlot clearly more conspicuous than the Cabernet Franc, at least for now. The palate is medium-bodied with just a touch of coarseness on the entry. I appreciate the weight and balance here and belatedly the Cabernet Franc begins to express itself on the latter half, lending structure and grip, a dash of spice and a bit of sinew. Whilst it will never have the persistence of other vintages and regrettably continue to be dwarfed by the 2005, it remains a very fine Cheval Blanc from Pierre Lurton and his team. Tasted September 2016.

Good bright ruby-red. Subdued but pure aromas of plum, flowers, licorice, menthol and Asian spices. Suave on entry, then dry and tight in the middle; extremely backward and shut down. Most impressive now for its finesse of texture. But today there's little sign of the fleshiness the wine showed in the spring after the harvest. Lock this one away for a while and forget about it. This vintage has more cab franc than merlot.