Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol 2005

This begins with a sexy roasted fruit character on the nose, then opens up to hints of spice, chocolate, wet earth, and dried flowers. The palate is incredible, with a concentration that builds, and a finish that remains agile and racy. Very defined and beautiful wine with great length and freshness. This still needs some time in the bottle. Pull the cork in 2018.

The 2005 Vieux Château Certan blossoms beautifully in the glass, but only after having been opened for several hours. Crushed flowers, mint, sweet herbs, anise and spice make a strong first impression. The 2005 is a VCC that makes its case more on finesse than power. I appreciate the understated, classy style quite a bit. Even so, the 2005 is not at the level of the best wines here. I suspect the 2005 will age gracefully for several decades to come, if not considerably longer. Tasted two times.

A stunning effort from Alexander Thienpont, the 2005 Vieux Chateau Certan (a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc) reveals an inky/blue/purple color along with a rich, sumptuous perfume of black olives, lavender, roasted herbs, licorice, pain grille, and oodles of truffles as well as creme de cassis. In the mouth, hints of chocolate and charcoal also make an appearance along with good acidity, fabulous purity, and a full-bodied, powerful mouthfeel. In keeping with the style of this terroir, the wine is reserved and restrained, but deep. It should develop magnificently, and age for 30-40 years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035.

(- 80% merlot) Bright ruby-red. Very closed nose hints at licorice and nutty oak. Sweet and broad in the mouth, with a chocolatey ripeness but less energy and grip than the 2006. This is more mouthfilling, and more sexy today in the middle palate, but may ultimately be less complex. Or is it just more reserved today? Finishes with substantial tannins that call for at least several years of aging.

Bright, deep ruby-red. Aromas of dark berries, licorice, bitter chocolate and toasty oak. Very fresh and tightly wound, with a superb core of primary black fruit flavor. Highly concentrated but currently closed in on itself and dominated by the oak. Best today on the finish, where the density and breadth of the wine are apparent and the tannins are serious but sweet. A wonderfully stylish, vibrant merlot-dominated wine. The crop level in 2005 was 39 hectoliters per hectare, according to Thienpont, who describes this wine as very Pomerol.