Vieux Chateau Certan, Pomerol 2009

This is a wine that had extreme intensity of electrifying tannins and acidity, with supercharged fruit. Full-bodied, yet agile and lively. It touches every taste bud on your palate. Chocolate mousse and fruit. I am lost for words. Legendary 1950 all over again. Try it in 2020.

The 2009's nearly 14% natural alcohol, exquisite ripeness, and incredible complex bouquet of Asian spices, fruitcake, licorice, smoke, blackberries and black currants are to die for. A blend of 84% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, it possesses a viscous texture as well as a freshness and vibrancy that are remarkable given the wine’s weight, richness and potential massiveness. This extraordinary effort is one of the finest Vieux Chateau Certans made over the last sixty years. It will undoubtedly shut down in bottle, requiring a decade or more of cellaring. It should keep for 50 years thereafter. Proprietor Thienpont thinks it is a modern day version of the 1948.

Rich and deep plum in colour, still with a vibrant reflection. This is right at the top tier of the 2009s, juicy and controlled, capturing appellation typicty in the soft waves of grilled caramel without being sweet or heavy, opens to waves of violet and tomato leaf, sculpted, juicy, delicious.

Bright medium-deep ruby. Musky aromas of red plum, blackcurrant, cocoa and tobacco leaf. Juicy, sappy and rather stylish on the palate, combining pepper and herb qualities with a subtle touch of sweetness. Not a hugely concentrated wine but amazingly well balanced and silky, and with insidious depth of flavor. Finishes with suave, spreading tannins.

The 2009 Vieux-Château-Certan has a gorgeous bouquet with red fruit, warm bricks, just a hint of sloes and rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with tarry red fruit, firm tannin and well judged acidity. It tapers in slightly towards the finish where I would like a little more roundness but there is persistence here. Readers know I am huge fan of Alexandre Thienpont and this property, but I aver that this growing season never suited them. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.

(a blend of 84% merlot, 8% cabernet franc and 8% cabernet sauvignon; 13.7% alcohol; pH 3.70; a 70% selection) Bright ruby-red. Aromas of strawberry, cocoa and minerals. Then very smooth, rich and sweet in the mouth, with fresh flavors of red berries, black cherry and cedar. Very nicely balanced but this will require time to reveal its inherent complexity. Finishes impressively long and clean, with a big but supple tannic structure. Alexandre Thienpont told me he had the same problem in 2009 as he had in '98, when the cabernet franc didn't ripen fully, though he's not sure why-hence the very low percentage of franc in the blend.