Leeuwin Estate, Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River 2019

The 2019 Art Series Chardonnay is filling out beautifully, within the confines of its svelte, mineral form. The vintage was cooler and later than either of the vintages either side, and the wines are aromatic and detailed by virtue of that. I'd still recommend leaving this wine in bottle for another couple of years; they are so slow to evolve that the primary fruit remains vital for at least the first decade. The benefit of waiting gives you extra complexity layered over the fruit, which blooms and plumes with time. The winemaking remains relatively consistent across the years: hand-picked fruit from Block 20 and 22 (planted in 1976 and 1978, respectively). Up to 30% of the cuvée was whole bunch pressed to 100% new Burgundian oak, while the balance was destemmed, crushed and pressed to 100% new Bordelais oak. Sulfured post-ferment in order to discourage malolactic fermentation, both components remain in barrel for 11 months.

This very impressive 2019 Margaret River Chardonnay Art Series from a benchmark winemaker is a baby and built for the long haul. It's tightly wound and bursting with youthful vitality thanks to exceptionally precise melon, citrus and floral aromas. There is a rare combination of seamlessness and power - a steel fist in a velvet glove - with oak perfectly matched. Fantastic fruit volume follows yet the wine also remains light on its feet with a long line of flavours slowly emerging including praline, nougat, citrus and spicy oak through to a finish of immense length. A true classic.

This has inviting aromas of white grapefruits, peach pits, lime curd, white flowers and some freshly grated nutmeg. Scallop and oyster shells, too. Medium-bodied, elegant yet powerful, with creamy and phenolic layers and delicious saline and flinty edges. Drink or hold. Screw cap.