Leeuwin Estate, Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River 2023

The 2023 Art Series Chardonnay was released in April 2026, and this is the second time I've seen it but the first time in a bottle. 2023 was a sensational vintage in Western Australia; the conditions brought out the best in almost every region, variety and producer. Vintages such as these are almost always positively exacerbated in the hands of great makers, as Leeuwin is. So, aromatically, the wine leads with white peach and crushed nuts, brine, chalk and notes of pink grapefruit. On the palate, the wine is bright, alive and fresh, with depth of flavor and length, too. I opened this wine three days ago and have looked at it every day since. The wine upon opening was electric—everything I have come to expect from 2023 and everything I had anticipated this wine would be. As the days have worn on, the wine has evolved, showing different characteristics, and this is where the élevage has come to the fore. Make no mistake, this is a superb release of this wine, perhaps just behind the unutterably powerful 2018 vintage. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.