Domaine Faiveley, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru, Les Cazetiers 2020

Ripe blackcurrant and plum fruit, with distinct mineral and floral notes. The texture is firm and structured, yet the wine is approachable enough to suggest that it won't be necessary to wait forever for this to mature. Fine and elegant. Faiveley owns 4.5 ha here, more than half of the total land in Cazetiers. This is always among the first climats to be picked by the team at Faiveley. The grapes are fermented with a large percentage of whole clusters and are fermented in half-new casks.

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is brilliant, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, plums, dark chocolate, spices and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's elegantly muscular, with a deep and multidimensional core and a long, expansive finish. It's worth a special effort to seek out.

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru has a very well-defined bouquet with vivacious red cherries, strawberry and crushed rock aromas. This has a little more attack than the Lavaux, partly because of the low yields, under 20hl/ha. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little creaminess in texture on the entry, very smooth with a slightly candied finish that just compromises its potential delineation. Still, this should drink well for 15- to 20 years.