Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Rouge Cru Classe, Pessac-Leognan 2023

Probably one of the most structured and stony SHLs I have ever had. Full yet very tight and compact palate with tannins that are like a tightly wound ball of silk. It goes on for a very long time. The cab berries were very small and they delivered a fantastic backbone of tannins, but at the same time intensity of vivid and reserved fruit. This is really long and classic in structure. The elevage in barrel will polish the fantastic, pure tannins. 70% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot, 6% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot. From biodynamically grown grapes.

Dark and fragrant nose, scented and intense but not too rich and ripe, more cool, crisp and fresh. Aromatics of roses, floral elements and pot pourri - very welcoming. Big boned, this has expansion and intensity from the get go, powdery tannins fill the mouth with a juicy core and layers of freshness, mint, graphite, wet stones, herbs, cocoa and liquorice. Not as immediately as suave, soft and caressing as SHL can be, this is more serious, more straight and streamlined. Still finessed but this has muscle to it, forward and direct. It’s a beauty but will need time to expand and soften some more. Still very much on the Cabernet aromatics and power. I do like its density though, there is richness here, it’s not all straight and the tannins are filling. This has lovely potential with chewy strawberry and cranberry flavours. You don’t have the feeling of overt warmth with a cool freshness and touching on austere acidity, but this offers freshness and tension as well as ripeness. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. 3.65pH. 26hl/ha yield, more or the less the same as usual winemaker Fabien Teitgen said.

Blackcurrants, smoky tobacco, graphite, and hints of espresso all emerge from the 2023 Château Smith Haut Lafitte, a gorgeous effort based on 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. This is the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon ever used in the blend, largely due to mildew, yet the team also loved the quality of the Cabernet in the vintage. Medium to full-bodied, it has a concentrated, focused mouthfeel, plenty of ripe tannins, and a chalky, mineral, fresh feel on the finish. I love the overall balance as well as the purity here. Hide bottles for just 4-5 years and it's going to blow you away over the following 30 years. Drink 2029-2055.

Confirming the impression it conveyed en primeur, the 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte is a superb effort, offering aromas of licorice, spices, dark berries, rose petals and clove. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and architecturally structured, it is built around a fleshy, concentrated core of fruit, supported by abundant, seamlessly integrated tannins, culminating in a long, mineral and penetrating finish. The decision to extend macerations—favoring gentle, prolonged extraction over short, forceful cuvaison—has endowed the wine with both textural refinement and the structural reserves to reward long cellaring.

Cabernet dominant in terms of aromatics and weight through the palate, opening with fennel, sage, violets, peonies, squid ink, cocoa bean, espresso, with the texture softening and becoming creamier through the mid palate. The hidden depths and slow build that elevates the always-seductive character of Smith Haut-Lafitte into one of the truly exceptional wines of Bordeaux are fully on display. Wine director Fabien Teitgen on his 28th vintage at the estate - and this is the vintage where King Charles and Camilla visited the property, so it comes with a commemorative label. 26hl/h yield, harvest September 8 to October 5.

The 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte is packed with sumptuous black cherry fruit, gravel, dried herbs, licorice and tobacco. Floral overtones appear with air, adding layers of dimension and complexity. There's a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon in this year's blend because Merlot suffered more through mildew episodes. That yields a Grand Vin that is a bit less sensual in the early going but also more explosive and powerful.

The 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte, which has more Cabernet than usual due to the mildew-affected Merlot and the quality of the Cabernet itself. It has a really lovely bouquet that makes an immediate impact: blackberry and boysenberry fruit, subtle hints of violet and cassis. Very pure and well-defined. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins, perfectly pitched acidity, very harmonious and poised, with a gradual build toward the finish. This is one of the best reds that you will find in the 2023 vintage in Bordeaux — superb.

A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, the 2023 Smith Haut Lafitte is aging in 60% new oak and it is opaque purple-black in color. It needs a bit of shaking to brink forth an eruption of blackcurrant preserves, ripe plums, and baked black cherries, leading to hints of chocolate mint, violets, and unsmoked cigars, with a waft of pencil shavings. The medium to full-bodied palate is taut with muscular black fruits, delivering a solid frame of firm, grainy tannins and well-knit freshness, finishing long and earthy.