Giacomo Conterno, Barolo, Monfortino Riserva 2001

The 2001 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a wine that appears to be going through an adolescent, unsettled phase. Several recent bottles have been quite stubborn, but this magnum is a bit better. Elegant and silky in feel, the 2001 gives the impression that it will mature earlier than some of the surrounding vintages. I know that will surprises more than a few Vinous readers – it surprises me too – but that’s just the way things look right now.

Good medium red. Quintessential floral perfume on the nose; a bit less extravagant than the Cascina Francia but still very ripe. Then less fat and lush and more vinous in the mouth. Less evolved and showing more obvious spine. Still, does this have the sheer verve of the greatest Monfortino vintages? Builds impressively toward the back end, finishing with full, molar-coating tannins and a suggestion of resiny oak.