Giacomo Conterno, Barolo, Francia 2004

The 2004 Barolo Cascina Francia boasts staggering depth and explosive intensity from the very first taste. One of the most brooding, backward 2004s, the Cascina Francia is one of the only wines in this vintage that I am slightly disappointed to have opened, as it is so intensely backward. Hints of sage, tobacco, menthol, rose petal and graphite open up in the glass, recalling just how mesmerizing the 2004 was in cask. At once silky, while at other times virile, the 2004 Cascina Francia is constantly changing in the glass. The multiple shades of nuance and complexity are those of Nebbiolo from a great site as expressed by one of the region's historic families. The price of Monfortino has escalated rapidly over the last few years, but by comparison, the 2004 Cascina Francia is still available in the market and represents a good relative value.