Giacomo Conterno, Barolo, Cerretta 2018

Roberto Conterno ferments his wines in conical oak vessels and ages them in large Austrian Stockinger casks. His Cerretta is full of complex, heavier aromas of tar, aromatic herbs and leather, focusing in on graceful mint, chocolate and a camphor depth. Full and austere on the palate, it shows great concentration for 2018, with moderate acidity and thick, grainy yet ripe tannins. Remarkable savoury finish.

Tasted from barrel, the Giacomo Conterno 2018 Barolo Cerretta is shaping up to be a beauty. What stands out most at this very young stage is the quality and the elegant tightness of the tannins. Cerretta fruit from Serralunga d'Alba makes for powerful, structured and concentrated Nebbiolo that is delivered with naked clarity and outstanding purity. These qualities are clearly linked to the vineyard site and less to the conservative efforts executed at the winery. You taste the crunch or the nervous quality of the grape skins and pulp with dark and purple berry nuances and rusty or mineral overtones that hint at the more significant presence of clay in these soils.

The 2018 Barolo Cerretta comes across as a touch linear in this vintage. Then again, that is the style of the year. Lavender, rose petal, mint, dried flowers, licorice and blood orange are nicely woven together. The 2018 is an attractive wine to be sure, but it also shows the nervy, edgy style of the year.